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Stair Stringer Calculator

Lay out perfect stairs in seconds — enter your total rise to get the number of steps, equal riser height, tread run, stringer length, and a code-compliant cut list.

Stringer mount
Measure the total rise — the vertical height from the lower floor surface to the upper floor surface. Enter it below and the calculator finds the number of steps, the exact riser height, and every stringer cut.
  • in
  • cm
  • in
  • cm
~7 in ideal · 7¾ in max
  • in
  • cm
10 in minimum
  • in
  • cm
  • 2×14 — 13¼ in (337 mm)
  • 2×12 — 11¼ in (286 mm)
  • 2×10 — 9¼ in (235 mm)
  • 2×8 — 7¼ in (184 mm)
  • Skip throat check

Results

Recommended layout
Enter your total rise to size the staircase.
Riser height
Tread run
Total run
Stringer length
Board to buy
Slope angle
Bottom riser cut
Throat depth
Code & comfort check IRC 2021
    How it was calculated

      Quick Answer

      A stair stringer calculator turns your total rise into a code-ready stair layout: it sets the number of risers = round(total rise ÷ target riser), makes every riser equal (total rise ÷ risers), and finds the stringer length with the Pythagorean theorem, √(total rise² + total run²). It also checks IRC limits — riser ≤ 7¾ in, tread run ≥ 10 in — and shortens the bottom riser by the tread thickness so every finished step is the same height.

      How the Stair Stringer Calculator Sizes a Staircase

      A stringer is cut from one number: the total rise, measured from the finished lower floor to the finished upper floor. Everything else follows from it. This stair stringer calculator divides the rise by your target riser to get a whole number of risers, then re-divides the rise by that count so every riser is exactly equal — which is what a building inspector checks first.

      risers = round(total rise ÷ target riser), then riser height = total rise ÷ risers.
      Treads = risers − 1 on a standard mount. Total run = treads × tread run.
      Stringer length = √(total rise² + total run²), and the slope angle is arctan(riser ÷ run).

      On a 110 in total rise with a 7 in target riser and an 11 in tread run, that gives 16 risers of 6⅞ in, 15 treads, a total run of 13 ft 9 in and a stringer line of 16 ft 6⁵⁄₁₆ in at 32.0°. Every figure on this page comes from those same formulas, so you can reproduce all of them in the calculator above.

      Why Your Target Riser Is Almost Never the Riser You Get

      The target riser is the most misread field on any stair calculator. It is not the riser height you will build — it is only a hint used to pick the number of risers. Once that count is fixed, the real riser is the rise divided by it, and the target is discarded. Because the count must be a whole number, wide bands of targets collapse onto the same answer:

      Target riser you typeRisers chosenRiser height you actually build
      6½ in176½ in (6.4706)
      6¾ in166⅞ in (6.875)
      7 in166⅞ in (6.875)
      7¼ in157⁵⁄₁₆ in (7.3333)
      7½ in157⁵⁄₁₆ in (7.3333)
      7¾ in147⅞ in (7.8571)

      All six rows are the same 110 in rise. Typing 6¾ or 7 gives an identical staircase, and so does 7¼ or 7½ — the target only matters when it crosses the boundary where the rounded count changes. If you want a specific riser height, work backwards: pick the riser count you want and check that rise ÷ count lands where you expect.

      Setting the Target at the Code Maximum Backfires

      The 2026 residential rule most people know is the 7¾ in maximum riser height in section R311.7.5.1 of the International Residential Code, alongside a 10 in minimum tread depth in R311.7.5.2. The instinct is to type 7¾ into the target riser to get the fewest, steepest steps allowed. That instinct produces a staircase that breaks the rule.

      Target 7¾ in on a 110 in rise gives 7⅞ in risers — over the limit. 110 ÷ 7.75 = 14.19, which rounds down to 14 risers, and 110 ÷ 14 = 7.857 in. Rounding the count down always pushes the riser height up. Aim for about 7 in and let the calculator find the count; the checklist in the results panel flags the riser the moment it goes over.

      The same rise with a target of 8 in is worse: 14 risers of 7⅞ in again, but now 2 × riser + run = 26.7, well outside the 24–25 comfort band the calculator checks. That band is the old Blondel rule, and it is the difference between a staircase that feels normal and one people trip on.

      Throat Depth: Why a 2×10 Stringer Comes Up Short

      The throat is the timber left behind the notches — the narrow spine that actually carries the load once the triangles are cut out. It is not the board width. Cutting a step removes a wedge measured along the slope, so the throat is the board width minus (riser × run) ÷ √(riser² + run²). On the 110/7/11 staircase that wedge is 5.83 in of timber gone from every board:

      Stringer boardActual widthThroat left after notchingCalculator’s check
      2×1413¼ in7⁷⁄₁₆ inpasses
      2×1211¼ in5⁷⁄₁₆ inpasses
      2×109¼ in3⁷⁄₁₆ inflagged
      2×87¼ in1⁷⁄₁₆ inflagged

      The 2×10 is the row worth staring at. It misses the calculator’s 3½ in threshold by one sixteenth of an inch — close enough that it looks fine on a cut list and fails on the saw. For an 11 in run, a 2×12 is effectively the smallest board that works, and a 2×8 is not in the conversation at 1⁷⁄₁₆ in of remaining timber.

      The throat threshold built into this calculator is a general carpentry check, and it is deliberately a single number. Deck stairs, exterior stairs and long unsupported spans are governed separately and can demand a deeper throat than an interior flight — and some jurisdictions amend the residential code outright. Confirm the throat requirement that applies to your job with your local building department before you cut, and treat a passing check here as a starting point, not an approval.

      Standard vs Flush Mount: One Tread of Difference

      The mount setting changes how the top of the stringer meets the landing, and it changes the tread count by exactly one. On a standard mount the upper floor itself is the last tread, so treads = risers − 1. On a flush mount the stringer hangs so its top tread sits level with the floor, so treads = risers. Same rise, same riser height, different footprint:

      SettingRisersTreadsTotal runStringer lengthBoard to buy
      Standard mount16 @ 6⅞ in1513 ft 9 in16 ft 6⁵⁄₁₆ in18 ft
      Flush mount16 @ 6⅞ in1614 ft 8 in17 ft 3⁹⁄₁₆ in18 ft

      That is 11 more inches of floor consumed and 9¼ in more stringer, for the identical staircase. In a tight basement or against a deck’s frost line, one extra tread is often the difference between fitting and not — so set the mount before you argue with the rise.

      Stringer Length, Slope Angle and the Board You Buy

      The stringer length is the plain hypotenuse of the whole staircase: √(total rise² + total run²). It is the cut line along the back of the board, not the length of timber you should order — the notches need material beyond the line at both ends, and lumber is sold in even foot lengths. The calculator rounds up accordingly, which is why a 16 ft 6⁵⁄₁₆ in stringer asks for an 18 ft board rather than a 17 ft one that does not exist.

      The slope angle comes from a single step, not the whole flight: arctan(riser ÷ run). At 6⅞ in over 11 in that is 32.0°, which sits in the comfortable domestic range. If your drawings or your site work in gradients rather than degrees, the degree to percentage calculator converts that angle to a percentage grade, and the slope percentage calculator goes the other way from a rise-over-run measurement.

      The Bottom Riser Cut Everyone Forgets

      Cut all sixteen notches identically and your finished staircase will be wrong at both ends. Once the treads go on, every step gains the thickness of a tread — except the bottom one, which sits on the slab with nothing under it. The fix is to trim the bottom of the stringer by exactly one tread thickness before it is set down.

      bottom riser cut = riser height − tread thickness. With 6⅞ in risers and a 1 in tread, the bottom notch is cut at 5⅞ in. Skip it and your first step is a full tread thickness taller than the other fifteen — the classic failure that makes an otherwise perfect flight trip people on the way down.

      How to Use the Stair Stringer Calculator

      1. Measure the total rise, finished floor to finished floor

        Measure from the surface you will stand on at the bottom to the surface you will stand on at the top — including any tiles, screed or decking not yet laid. This one number drives everything else, so measure it twice. Use the picker beside the box to work in inches or centimetres.

      2. Set a target riser and a tread run

        About 7 in is the comfort sweet spot for the riser. For the run, type the depth cut into the stringer — any nosing overhang is extra and does not belong in this field.

      3. Choose Standard or Flush mount

        Standard treats the upper floor as the top tread; flush adds one more tread and about one run of extra floor space. Set this before you judge whether the staircase fits.

      4. Enter your tread thickness and stringer board

        The tread thickness produces the bottom riser cut. The board width drives the throat check — pick the size you actually intend to buy, or choose “Skip throat check” if you are using a mono stringer with no notches.

      5. Read the checklist, not just the headline

        The results panel lists the riser, tread run, comfort figure and throat side by side with the limits each is measured against. Open the step-by-step working underneath to see every division and square root that produced the numbers.

      Worked Examples

      Every row is reproducible in the calculator above, all with a 1 in tread thickness on a 2×12 board:

      JobRise / target / runRisersTotal runStringerAngle
      Deck to patio110 / 7 / 11 in16 @ 6⅞ in13 ft 9 in16 ft 6⁵⁄₁₆ in32.0°
      Basement, tighter run105 / 7 / 10½ in15 @ 7 in exactly12 ft 3 in15 ft ⅝ in33.7°
      Standard 8 ft storey96 / 7 / 11 in14 @ 6⅞ in11 ft 11 in14 ft 4¼ in31.9°
      Too-tall target110 / 8 / 11 in14 @ 7⅞ in — over11 ft 11 in15 ft ⁷⁄₁₆ in35.5°
      Metric equivalent280 / 18 / 28 cm16 @ 17.5 cm420 cm504.8 cm32.0°

      The basement row is the one to copy. A 105 in rise divides by 15 to give a riser of exactly 7 in with no remainder — the rare case where the target and the result agree, because the rise happens to be a clean multiple. When a rise divides evenly like that, the staircase is easier to cut and easier to check.

      Stair Stringer Calculator: FAQ

      Divide the total rise by your target riser height and round to a whole number — that is the riser count. Divide the total rise by that count for the true riser height, which is the same for every step. Treads are one fewer than risers on a standard mount, total run is treads × tread run, and the stringer length is √(rise² + run²). A 110 in rise at 7 in and 11 in gives 16 risers of 6⅞ in and a 16 ft 6⁵⁄₁₆ in stringer.

      For a typical 11 in run, a 2×12. Notching removes (riser × run) ÷ √(riser² + run²) from the board — 5.83 in on a 6⅞ in by 11 in step — so a 2×12 keeps 5⁷⁄₁₆ in of throat while a 2×10 is left with 3⁷⁄₁₆ in and a 2×8 with 1⁷⁄₁₆ in. The 2×10 misses this calculator’s threshold by a single sixteenth of an inch, which is exactly the kind of margin that looks acceptable on paper and is not.

      Because the target only chooses how many risers there are. The riser count has to be a whole number, so the calculator rounds it and then re-divides the total rise by that count to make every riser equal. On a 110 in rise, typing 6¾ or 7 both produce 16 risers of 6⅞ in — the two targets give an identical staircase.

      The International Residential Code sets a maximum riser of 7¾ in in section R311.7.5.1 and a minimum tread depth of 10 in in R311.7.5.2. Note that entering 7¾ as your target riser will usually break that limit rather than meet it: 110 ÷ 7.75 rounds down to 14 risers, and 110 ÷ 14 is 7.857 in. Local authorities can amend these figures, so confirm with your building department.

      Standard mount lets the upper floor act as the top tread, so you cut one fewer tread than risers. Flush mount hangs the stringer so its top tread finishes level with the floor, giving one tread per riser. On a 110 in rise at 11 in run that single tread adds 11 in to the total run — 13 ft 9 in becomes 14 ft 8 in — and 9¼ in to the stringer, which is often what decides whether a staircase fits the space available.

      Every step gains the thickness of its tread once the treads are fitted, but the bottom of the stringer sits directly on the floor with no tread beneath it. Trimming the base by one tread thickness — 6⅞ in riser minus a 1 in tread leaves a 5⅞ in bottom cut — keeps all sixteen risers equal. Miss it and the first step is a full tread thicker than the rest.

      It is the Blondel comfort rule: twice the riser height plus the tread run should land between about 24 and 25 in. It reflects the length of a natural stride on a slope. The 110/7/11 staircase scores 24.75 and feels normal; pushing the target riser to 8 in scores 26.7 and produces stairs people notice underfoot, even though the geometry is otherwise valid.

      No. The stringer length is the diagonal cut line, √(rise² + run²). You need material beyond that line at both ends for the notches and the mounting cuts, and lumber comes in even foot lengths — so the calculator rounds up to the next even foot. A 16 ft 6⁵⁄₁₆ in stringer means buying an 18 ft board.

      Code figures on this page refer to the 2021 International Residential Code, section
      R311.7.5, Stair treads and risers,
      as published by the International Code Council. Many jurisdictions amend it — the
      City of Boise treads and risers handout
      is one example of how a local authority restates the same section. Always confirm the figures that apply to your job with your own building department before cutting.

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